| Travel Stories
| | In the beginning of the 19th century there are travel accounts from Zealand and Scania by a number of culture personalities of the time.
The travel accounts of the time tell us what the landscape and cities looked like. You can also sense the lifestyle and mentality of the time.
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| | The Swedish civil servant, Odenkrants, undertook a journey from Helsingborg, via Elsinore to Copenhagen in the summer of 1806. Odencrants kept a diary during his journey.
So did Francisco de Miranda from Venezuela and the Danish historian and linguist Christian Molbech. |
Francisco de Miranda
In the end of the 18th century Francisco de Miranda, the later national hero in his homeland, Venezuela, took a culture trip in Europe. He was a personal friend of the Russian empress, but he also was able to become a general in the French revolutionary army. He died in Spanish captivity. By the end of 1787 Miranda was on his way from St. Petersborg via Sweden to Copenhagen. He travelled through Sweden to Helsingborg in his own carriage:
"December 21th 1787
Inden man i Helsingborg havde stemplet et »Passer" i mit pas, og båden var kommet, var klokken allerede blevet over 3. Der var også tusind diskussioner med folkene i tolden om undersøgelsen af min bagage, men til slut kom overtoldinspektøren, baron Koskull (Kuskaal), som med stor elskværdighed bragte orden i det hele og fulgte mig ud på bryggen (han rådede mig dog til at give en skærv til vagterne), men her fandt jeg min vogn skilt ad og allerede bragt ombord på en båd med voldsomme stød og slag, så jeg ikke begriber, at den ikke blev slået i tusind stykker. Og for dette var jeg nødt til at betale en rigsdaler til folkene!
Omsider hejsede vi dog sejl, og med en gunstig vind kunne vi efter fem og tyve minutters sejlads stige i land i Helsingør(Elsineur)
På overfarten kunne man nyde det skønneste syn af begge kysterne og udsigten fra land til land. Afstanden fra Sverige er en halv mil (efter hvad en ingeniør i Helsingør fortalte mig 9.840 skridt, målt med en kæde trukket over isen).
I Helsingør blev jeg først antastet af en vagthavende sergent, der skulle have mit pas for at give det til kommandanten; dernæst af betjentene, som skulle undersøge min bagage. Toldkontrolløren, monsieur Møllerz var dog så venlig at lade mig gå ind i sin stue, indtil mit stakkels køretøj var blevet udskibet i samme jammerlige forfatning, hvori det var blevet indskibet. Og så blev jeg oven i købet tvunget til at betale en rigsdaler derfor! Så fulgte det forbandede toldeftersyn, der ubarmhjertigt gennemrodede hele min smule bagage, de så endda efter, om mine veste var brugt eller ej! I sandhed, hvilken smålighed!
... Til sidst måtte jeg så betale 2 rigsdaler til båden, der havde bragt mig fra Helsingborg, og da jeg omsider havde rystet alle disse kæltringer af mig og var sluppet ud af denne redelighed, tog jeg ind på Carmichael.s gæstgivergård (Karmickell), hvis ejer, der lød dette navn, havde hjulpet mig ud af kniben…"
Francisco de Miranda |
Thor August Odencrants
As seen from Miranda´s depiction it was not easy to cross the Sound around the turn of the century. There were only a few weekly departures by sailboat each way and it could be expensive and difficult. Thor August Odencrants, a high official and later High Court Judge, undertook a culture journey in the neighbouring country. Here is an excerpt from his arrival in Elsinore July 31th 1806:
”Fra søen præsenterer Helsingborg sig mindre til sin fordel eller som en bondeby imod Helsingør, som ved større bygninger, kirke med højt tårn, alle skibene og fornemmelig Kronborg Slot frembyder et langt mere imponerende skue...
...Sproget forstod jeg vel, men syntes – som formentlig de fleste svenske - at dets lyd er ubehagelig og blødagtig. Noget værdigt og stolt måtte man vist aldrig udsige med fynd på dette sprog, som ene synes at høre fejheden og den svage til. Måske denne ide hidrører fra en slags medfødt antipati mod alt dansk. Den fremkalder foragt, men den som de danske nærer mod os kommer vist af nogen frygt og såret egenkærlighed.”
Odencrants (1782 - 1829) | 
The Diary of Odencrants |
Christian Molbech In Zealand
The Danish historian and linguist Christian Molbech, who later became an important promoter of the the cultural co-operation across the Sound depicted the North Zelandic nature in his script ”Youth Walks in my Native Country”. Molbech walked from Esrum to Elsinore:
»Fra Esrom lagde jeg Vejen forbi Gurre til Helsingør. Længe nød jeg Udsigten over den blikstille Esrom Sø, som man her fra Bankerne ved dens nordlige Ende ganske overseer. Den store blanke Flade lå spejlklar for mig; mit Øje gled hen over Vandet forbi den høje Skov, en lang, grønklædt Mur, der hegner den vestlige Bred, forbi Fredensborgs Tårnspidser og det skinnende hvide Skipperhus, til det i den fjernere Baggrund tabte sig i Bugter, hvor Skovene vare omhyllede af tynde Morgentåger…
…Under sådanne Omskiftninger så jeg den herlige Sø til forskellige Tider, og altid opdagede jeg ny Skønhed. Såre dejligt fandt jeg det, gennem den adspredte Skov ved Søens nordøstlige Kant, at se den snart at vise sig, snart at forsvinde og således længe, skønt svindende, at følge mig, til den endelig sagde mig Farvel på Bankerne ved Landsbyen Tikøb. .."
Molbech was evidently captivated by the magnificent view of Esrum Lake. In Tikøb he wanted to visit the old church, but it was locked, so he continues his journey. In Tikøb he was fascinated by by an unusual peasant´s garden, but he did not, as it appears, think much of the aesthetic sense of the peasantry:
"…jeg fik nogen Oprejsning for dette Savn ved at køre forbi en stor, meget vel anlagt og indhegnet Bondehave, tilhørende den brave Lars Olsen i Tikøb hvor jeg ikke blot så Frugttræer og Havebede og Gange i den pyntelige Orden; men endog en Træhave på den anden Side af Vejen, hvor Ejeren opelsker og poder allehånde Frugttræer.
Så meget dette Syn end fornøjede mig, blev dog både min æstetiske og økonomiske Nydelse hastig forstyrret ved den Tanke, at hvad jeg her så, er i Sjælland måske en Undtagelse af en blandt hundrede. Det varede længe, før jeg kunde glemme denne Have; og da Økonomien aldrig ret kan blive Hovedsagen hos mig, tænkte jeg mig først, hvor muntre og livlige vore Landsbyer og adspredte Bøndergårde vilde blive, når vi få dem omringede af sådanne Haver.
Uvilkårlig måtte jeg da også tænke på, hvorledes ikke blot Bondens Pung, men også hans Sædelighed kunde vinde ved den forøgede Virksomhed og behagelige Afveksling, som den blide Havedyrkning, en Syssel, der nærmer Mennesket så meget til det Skønne i Naturen, kunde forskaffe ham. Det er en almindelig, og mig synes ikke glædelig Erfaring, at folk af denne Klasse ikke blot savne næsten al Sands for det Skønne; men at de og såre sjældent ville lægge Vind på nogen Frembringelse, der ikke lover øjeblikkelig Fordel. Jeg er ikke af dem, som kunne ønske denne Folkeklasse en unaturlig Kultur; men det synes mig, at Havedyrkning er en af de rolige, fredelige Sysler, der fortjene og behøve Opmuntring og fuld Opmærksomhed hos dem, der ville arbejde på Bondestandens sande Forædling."
Christian Molbech |
Country and Towns
On his further journey Molbech dwelled on the ”lonely beauty” of the area and he had a hard time getting rid of that feeling as he did not like the reunion with culture in Elsinore.
"I en blid, alvorlig Stemning forlod jeg Gurre, hvis stille ensomme Skiønhed, set på en lys, men ikke klar Høstdag, har et stærkt romantisk Anstrøg, der vedligeholder sig gennem den vilde udyrkede Sandegn imellem Skovene ved Gurre og Helsingør. Banker med sparsomt Krat, Tørvemoser, øde Lyngheder, hvor hist og her et lille ensomt Træ afbryder den sørgelige Ensformighed, som de ellers ret venlige røde Lyngblomster omsider frembringe - dette er Alt, hvad vi her møde. På enkelte Steder frembringer det en underlig Kontrast, på den ene Side af Vejen, at se en vel dyrket Ager, og paa den anden, den nøgne, vilde Hede. Imidlertid fandt jeg denne Vej aldeles ikke ubehagelig; den fremmede, øde Skikkelse, hvori jeg så Naturen, var mig endog ret interessant; jeg var ligesom med et forflyttet ud af Sjælland, og Egnen om Helsingør, der ligger skjult bag høje Banker, indtil man er Byen ganske nær, Udsigterne over Sundet, og Byens eget Udseende var mig ligeså nyt som alt det Øvrige.
En Købstad med 5 til 6000 Mennesker i Fredstider er naturligvis noget Andet end vore almindelige Smaastæder, og vi genfinder her kun en Del af disses udvortes Præg. Skønt Folkevrimlen i disse Tider er langt mindre, end da Handel og Skibsfart blomstrede, var den Befolkning, jeg fandt på Gaderne, mig dog næsten overraskende. Byens Beliggenhed fandt jeg i det Hele temmelig sørgelig; og skønt den har adskillige ordentlige Gader, og ikke få store og smukke Huse, blev jeg dog om¬sider ked af at vanke omkring imellem den større Mængde af sletbyggede Gader og Huse, som man i Almindelighed finder dem i vore små Købstæder."
Molbech in Scania
Christian Molbech continued in the following years his walks on the other side of the Sound and collected his accounts in the work, ”Rejser i Sverrig” 1812. Here is the following description of the area around Bækkeskov in north-eastern Scania:
"Veien følger en Stund Bredden af Kiaby eller Opmanna-Sø, og nu viser sig med ét det romantiske Bekkeskov på en skovbegroet Landtunge imellem to Indsøer. Den anden af disse er den store lvø-Sø, hvis Vandflade lyste frem imellem Bakkerne. Den har sit navn af Ivø, en stor, til dels med Skov bevokset ø, der udgør et helt Kirkesogn, hvis Bønder gør Hoveri til Bekkeskov. Over Træerne, plantede langs med Søens Bred og omkring Gården, hævede den gamle Klosterbygning sine røde Mure og Tårne, hvilke i Aftensolens Glans luede med stærkere Rødme, end om Dagen.
Et dejligt, malerisk Landskab, og en såre romantisk Beliggenhed! Skulde jeg ligne denne Klosterbygning med nogen i Danmark, som jeg kender, måtte det være med Herlufsholm; men Bekkeskov ligger i en skønnere og rigere Egn.
. . . Ved Bekkeskov er en stor og smuk Have, der strækker sig ned til Søen. Her traf jeg en ung Officer, Ritmester Toll, Generalens Brodersøn og Adjudant, der havde den Artighed at vise mig om i Haven. Det skønneste Parti er en herlig, tæt Lund, langs med den brede Kanal, der slynger sig dejligt igennem de mørke Løvhvælvinger. En Del af de tilgrænsende Marker med Agre og Enge er sat i Forbindelse med Haven, og ved adskillige vakre Anlæg, uden at berøves sin Bestemmelse, forvandlet til en vidtløftig Park."Arndts Travel
| | In 1804 Ernst Moritz (1769-1860)from Rügen described a journey in Scania and along the Sound coast, a journey, which he found fascinating.
The impression was a changing landscape: Agricultural reforms ushered in a new age, but in the cities there had not been any significant changes since Linné´s famous journey in 1749. |
In the beginning of the 19th century it became popular to read travelogues. Many authors depicted their experiences from foreign countries. Ernst Moritz Arndt was one of these travellers and he explored the exotic Sweden. He was born in Rügen, which at that time was part of Sweden, which may explain his interest in this Nordic country. Arndt made an academic career for himself and became a professor in history in Greifwald as well as Bonn. However he fell into disfavour with the authorities because of his liberal views. He fought serfdom and advocated the union of Germany. His hatred towards France and Napoleon was evident and his attitude towards absolute powers.
Enterprising manufacturers and landowner did more for the evolution of society than conservative kings, priests and farmers, and this was a view that did not go down well with the establishment. Eventually he was rehabilitated and today the university in Greifswald is called “Ernst-Moritz-Arndt-Universität and several other schools and institutions in Germany have been named after him.
Ernst Moritz Arndt | 
The Ferryman |
To travel is to learn
It was this man, who travelled across Sweden and collected his impressions in his famous travelogue: “Reise durch Schweden im Jahr 1804”.
Arndt´s travelogue is a goldmine for those interested in cultural history. It has been said that this book taught the Swedes about their country. The travelogue ends with the tour in Scania and through this we are also treated to a glimpse of the Sound coast fifty years after Linné´s Scanian journey. Here is a mosaic of some Arndt´s impressions.
Arndt came to Lund via Åhus-Yngsjö-Sjöbo and Dalby. And his first view of the Sound he described from Romeleklint in this charming manner:
“I stopped for a few minutes in lovely clear sunshine to enjoy the wide open view of Lund, Malmo, the ocean and the towers of Copenhagen”.
Visiting Lund
Lund as a city did not impress Arndt, not even the cathedral made an impact on him: “Lund is and open, irregular and in no way well-built town, which isn´t well-reputed through any kind of trade, but is nourished from farming and the university. The only old and strange building is the cathedral, but in contrast to many others, I don´t see it as an architectural marvel.
The activities in the Botanical Garden and the Academic Plantation seemed to point to a certain affinity to Linné´s views that the mild climate had certain advantages for Scania:
“In this Nordic country they wanted to grow plants, which isn´t even successful in any of Germany´s provinces, and they thought that Scania, as it is the most southern situated province, should have particularly good growing conditions for southern countries´ plants. They started all sorts of different colour plants and planted a multitude of mulberry trees, so they didn’t have to buy raw silk from Italians and Frenchmen. According to the Lund magistrate’s records about 100.000 mulberry trees where grown from seeds, and these endured several winters”.
When it came to the university Arndt seemed to mostly interested in the economical conditions of the professors. He left Lund and the Lund plains, “the best agricultural mould in the world”, and went to northwestern Scania, where Ängeltofta, the Kullen peninsula and Helsingborg beckoned.
Lund | 
Lund´s Cathedral |
Exemplary Farming
Ängeltofta estate, situated in Barkåkra outside Ängelholm, had become known for the rationalizations, which captain Karl Georg Stjernsvärd had carried through in the beginning of the 19th century. In his time the estate’s yield had doubled ten times since he changed it, abolished the day’s work obligation and had new farming equipment made. Arndt was very impressed with the activities on the estate, an admiration, which was surpassed later, when he visited Svaneholm. He described Stjersvärd´s rationalization work:
“Now he made an altogether new and very enterprising decision, namely to use Scottish labour and to run the farming according to Scottish and English methods. Scottish blacksmiths made new equipment and above all Arndt praised the Scottish plough which doesn’t overturn the furrows, but line them up against each other, so that, according to the Scotsmen, the earth will mould much better.”
A new rotation of crops had been introduced with a six-fold circulation without fallow and new fine bulls of Dutch and English origin had been provided. According to Arndt Ängeltofta was genuine model agriculture.
Ängeltofta farm | 
Munument in Ägeltofta |
Hoganas and Helsingborg
The pit coal mines in Höganäs and the pit coal factories in Helsingborg was run by Count Eric Ruuth, who had become a respected figure in the Scanian business life and he received much credit for his way of concentrating on the industry in his factories. “Count Ruuth should rightly be remembered in his native country’s cultural history, but then – shouldn’t he be there in even greater glory than he who has made a sacrifice on the altar of his homeland? For he has invested a large part of his considerable fortune in a risky enterprise”.
Arndt came from Rügen, where a view of land and sea was natural and at every place, which offered something similar, he became nostalgic. Even in Helsingborg:
“In front of the city of Helsingborg is a hill with an old tower called Kärnan; here I stopped for a few minutes. The Sound with its hundred ships, Elsinore, Kronborg, the beautiful beaches of Zealand, the glimpse of Copenhagen’s towers in the distance – everything lay before me and seemed to flow away at the edge of the horizon. Oh, the pictures and desires it awoke in me. All the fabulous dreams of my youth, to sail off to India and Otaheiti, became alive at the sight of these countless flags and pennants. How easily I could have been on the other side. In a few hours I could be on the Danish beaches and a few hours later I could have walked the streets of Copenhagen”.
The beauty of the city made a far greater impact on him than the size of it. Arndt went down from the castle to a house with the inscription “English Tavern”, which was a nice, but very expensive inn. But “that is only natural in a place, where the number of travellers and foreigners from many nations is so great. I had dinner with several Danes and Germans, I even met some fellow countrymen from Pomerania and had the pleasure of speaking the language of the place I come from”.
His impression of Helsingborg as a meeting place grew stronger in his depiction of Ramlösa, who beckoned visitors from far and near and especially from Denmark.
Landskrona and Malmo
The new city of Landskrona made an agreeable impression on Arndt
“for during the past century everything has been laid out according to a new plan and the old city has been moved to its present place... The city is now regularly laid out with a beautiful town square, broad, straight streets and fine houses.”
In the areas of Landskrona tobacco was grown and the city had, according to Arndt, five tobacco factories. Of course he did not overlook Hven as the famous island where Tycho Brahe had performed his scientific calling.
To Arndt Malmo was the only city in Scania that could be compared to the German cities.
“The countryside of the city has mostly a pre-Frankish look, it is dark and densely built, but the more beautiful is the part, which is close to the castle and the harbour and in particular the town square. This is one of the most beautiful in the world; it consists of a square with many ornamental houses, among which the town hall and the mayor’s house is particularly fine”.
That the man from Rügen valued the broad horizon of the sea is evident from his visit to the waters and the harbour of Malmo:
“Many take a stroll on the green banks and the meadows around the town and along the sea and the harbour, which is west and there you can enjoy the evening in all its beauty. From here there is a view of Copenhagen with its towers reflected in the water and an infinite number of pennants.”
Svaneholm
But what made the greatest impression on Arndt in Scania was Rutger MacLean´s activities in Svaneholm:
“Some twenty years ago he made a plan to liberate his many farmers, who were estate day-labourers and poor peasants with a scarce livelihood, from all this service obligation and turn them into independent human beings. What a battle on all sides against stupidity and prejudice! But he succeeded with resolution and without bitterness. For many years he was then occupied with setting up boundaries between his own and his neighbours´ estates.... Every farmer now should take care of his own field and meadow, live in the middle of his land in what he was able to maintain reasonably and comfortably. Before the farmers had their fields in 53 different places and more often than not fields situated three miles away from the farm, which they were not able to cultivate properly; in short, they were in a sorry state.”
Arndt did not overlook the peasants´ dissatisfaction with MacLean’s reforms:
“Mot became dissatisfied and objected when he presented them with his new household plans and the lease, which had very favourable terms. Their dissatisfaction forced him to go ahead with it all, for those who had been cut off could easily find employment elsewhere, which could have meant that he, with all his humane and patriotic views, could have gotten into difficulties through lack of people. Twenty households abandoned him and were taken in on the nearby estates.”
In his depictions of MacLean and Svaneholm the economical changes dominated, but Arndt also wanted to draw a picture of the enlightened man’s care for his peasants: “His incessant goal is to educate his peasants and their children – for he puts his faith in a future generation of sensible, considerate and capable people... For this purpose he has built schools for the peasants´children and built two schoolhouses, one in Skurup by the church, which is under his patronage, and the other one east of there in the middle of his area, so that the children will not have to take a long and difficult way.”
Thus Arndt hoped that the Scanian landlords would follow the example of Svaneholm so that the neglected and miserable farming which still dominated the landscape would not exist too lang. When he left the estate to travel back to Germany from Ystad he wrote down the following hope:
“Oh, my poor country! When will your MacLean show himself? When will we learn that it is as shameful as it is stupid, a sin in the face of God, earth and mankind to treat human beings as slaves.”?
Svaneholm |
| |
 | | Large | Friedrich Kuhlau (1786-1832) |
| | Large | Friedrich Kuhlau (1786-1832) |
H. C. Andersen
| | H.C. Andersen´s motto was”To travel is to live” and he undertook several journeys in his life. Some of the first went to Northern Zealand and he also crossed the Sound several times. |
Romanticism and Wanderlust
H.C.Andersen were among the first to depict the bliss of Northern Zealand. However he did so reluctantly. He was taking his A-levels under Headmaster Meisling, originally in Slagelse, but when Meisling transferred to Elsinore Andersen went with him and he spent a year from 1826- 27 in the grammar school in Elsinore.
H.C.Andersen had to promise headmaster Meisling as well as his benefactors to stick to his school, but he couldn´t give up writing entirely. He depicted his first encounter with the Sound Duty town of Elsinore, a provincial town with a cosmopolitan air like this:
Helsingeur den 8. Juni 1826.
"Betragtet ude fra Vejen lovede Helsingeur mig ikke meget, men nu jeg er inde i den, synes den mig et lille København, og jeg tror ofte at være der; hvilken Færdsel! hvor livlig på Skibsbroen, her taler nogle tykke Hollændere deres hule Sprog, der hører jeg det harmoniske Italiensk, længere henne læsser de Stenkul af en engelsk Brig, saa jeg tror at lugte London. Sundet er besat med Skibe, der som Strandmåger svæver forbi Kysterne. -I Dag gik der et stort Krigsskib herigennem trukket af et Dampskib, de saluterede, og lystigt drønede det og gav ekko fra Kullen."
View towards Kullen |
Outing at Marienlyst
Shortly after his arrival Andersen had the opportunity to experience the area, when he went on outings with the Meislings. H.C. Andersen was very enthusiastic, but it must be taken into account that it took place in his youth, before he went on his many journeys abroad:
"Igaar var jeg med Meisling i Marienlyst; o, det er noget af det første(ypperste)jeg har set! Hvor Søen og hele Egnen er dejlig, Meisling siger, at hele Kysten her skal have megen Ligning med kysten ved Neapel; hvilke herlige Bakker er der ikke i Haven; alt forekommer mig som Schweiz, og jeg følte mig saa usigelig lykkelig, o man maa blive Digter eller Maler ved at se den dejlige Natur. O, Velgører, Tak! Tak! for hvert lykkeligt Øjeblik! Livet er dog Herligt!!!"
Tidspunktet må være omkring pinse, hvor der var fester ved Hammermøllen i Hellebæk:
"I de første Dage spadserede vi ret, besøgte Marienlyst og Hammermøllen, hvor M. betalte for mig og Børnene, for at vi måtte ride på Træhestene. Jeg har vist taget mig komisk ud...
Headmaster Meisling | 
City Dwellers in the Country | 
View of Elsinore |
Reunion with Elsinore
The stay in Elsinore under headmaster Meisling was a terrible time in Andersen´s life and probably explains his later somewhat ambiguous realionship with the northern coast of Zealand, which he later called “The Fever Coast” and “The Zealandic Greenland”. He shunned the area and claimed that it made him ill to stay here. It is not until 1837 that there are information about his movements on the North Coast between Elsinore and Hellebæk-Ålsgårde. A diary note from June 20-22. testifies to this, but there are no thoughts about his time in the grammar school ten years earlier:
"Kjøbenh.:20 [juni].
Oppe Klokken 4. Deiligt Vejr. Reitzel forærede mig en. Improvisator og et Lommetørklæde over Sverrig. Luftet lidt kjøligt. Klokken. 12 i varmt Solskin i Helsingør. Var med Gad i Kronborg. En vaad, kold Tåge, kom, som Skyer fra Kattegattet. Det øverste af Kronborg skjultes. Hveen et lavt Capri. Udsigt fra Boyes Have. Var hos Olsen (lidt Patient.)"
Kronborg 1825 |
Andersen across the Sound
H.C. Andersen had visited Capri on his Italy trip around1830. His visit to doctor Olsen that day was perhaps caused by excitement for as it appears Andersen crossed the Sound Thursday the 22nd to Helsingborg and Sweden, which he now visited for the first time:
"I Helsingborg Soldaterne, særdeles smukke. Sproget klang som Musik. Den ny Havn. Springvand paa Torvet. Boer i Hotel de Munthe. Var anbefalet Dr Ohlsen, som boede meget elegant, han førte mig op gjennem Haver til Kjærnen, der ligger høit over Byen, ovenpaa var den græsgroet, som en Bakke, man anede ei at det var et Taarn. - Gik med Adolf Rosenkilde siden op til Kjærnen igjen. Sol-Reflexen paa det brede Sund glimrende, Vandet mælkehvidt. Kullen ragede op over Sundet…"
Efter et enkelt døgns ophold I Helsingborg går turen videre op igennem det nordvestlige Skåne og ind i Halland:
"Fredag 23.- Smerter og derfor ilde stemt. Graat Veir. Maleriske Fruentimmer. Birketræer. Kullen. Engelholm, den maleriske Træbro. Spiiste Frokost. Postillonen. Belmanns Vise. (Sjöbeck..) - Ved Laho1m forbi Lave-Elv med Vandfald, rundtom brændte Lyng. Klippenatur. Slette med et Monument for Kong Carl den 11. og en Steen, for Lützau:” stümpat men kämpande faldt her den tappre Lützau i Feldtslaget 17 August 1676.” - Halmstad, Middagsmad, en smuk Bro med støbt Jern. Fæstningsport. Bøgeskoven, den sidste i Sverrig. Falkenberg, det var Midsommers Festen, Pigerne pyndtede Maistangen i morgen Nat skal der være Dans...
…Løverdag den 24. Top Kaisa! siger vor Postillon. (Du min moder säg! Belmannsk Vise). I Varberg opreist en Midsommerstang, spiist godt…"
Perhaps the coachman sang on the way, for Andersen knew Bellman´s songs and he also became acquainted with Swedish midsummer customs. Lützau was a Danish officer, who was killed in the Scanian War and for whom the local population had erected a worthy memorial.
Repeated Travels
In the years 1839 and 1840 Andersen travelled around in Scania and in 1849 he took a longer journey around Sweden, which was depicted in the book ”I Sverrig” from 1851. In 1865 H.C. Andersen travelled to Stockholm and Uppsala, this time with the railway from Malmø to Stockholm. Andersen´s last stay in Sweden had finished in 1864. However he travelled through Sweden in 1871 on his way to Norway.
H.C. Andersen travelling |
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